Couching test

Here are my notes on the couching experiment.

First, I should note that it is a little easier if you thread the yarn through the foot and then attach the foot to the machine.

I let the yarn feed in automatically and tried straight stitch and zigzag at various settings.

The zigzag stitches that were wider than the yarn had a tendency to tunnel the fabric, which is more apparent from the backside.

Note that the sample was photographed unpressed.

I gradually lengthened the zigzag stitch towards the end of the sample, ending at a stitch length of 7.0. I like the look of the longer stitch length with the zigzag stitch and the color of the thread adds another dimension.

The straight stitch thread virtually disappears into the yarn for a very different look. Here’s a close up for comparison.

If you have any suggestions and inspirational examples of couching used in garment sewing, please let me know.

 

ETA

Found a link to a SewNews article where couching is used to create an interesting coordinated accent fabric that is then used on the collar and for the button tabs of a jacket. Click on photo for link.

Here is a photo of the sample all nicely pressed. Unsurprisingly it makes a big difference.

Skirt S2064

This fabric recently went on sale at Jo-Ann. It’s from the Little Lisette Fall 2011 collection.

I decided to make Simplicity 2064.

It’s not that I have to make the pattern in the exact same fabric as the picture. I used the same fabric because I had the opportunity and I thought it would be a good way to build sewing skills, i.e. one less variable in the mix.

Having said that, it’s interesting that when you show kids the picture and ask “Would you like me to make you this?” they will always answer as though the item you will make will look exactly like the photo. You’ll never get an answer like “yes I’d like that in a tiger print fabric”, more like “yes I like those stripes” or “no, I don’t like pink”.

I cut out the fabric at the same time as the tissue pattern with my new electric scissors, the EC200 that I learned about from the Brian Sews blog. These are totally awesome, a terrific gadget and I highly recommend them. Thank you Brian for the great tip about this device!

Here is my S2064 version:

Pattern modifications were to cut the 8 size width for my 8 year old, and the longest length size (12 years). Even then the skirt was too short for a deep hem.  so the hem was a 4-thread overlock edge that was turned to the inside and topstitched.

The waistband was cut on the selvedge, the fabric does have a lovely selvedge along one side.

I used 3/4 inch elastic in the casing rather than the 1/4 inch suggested in the pattern. The waistband was certainly large enough to accommodate 3/4 inch and the fabric is relatively heavy so this may be a more durable choice.

The major challenge was seam finishing. I ran each seam edge separately under the overlock machine after sewing the seam. However on the front seam, there was a bulky area where the bias binding of the pocket extended into the SA. At this small spot there are 6 layers of the twill fabric.

Because the presser foot was partly riding on this seam allowance while overlocking the other side of the seam edge, things went haywire when it hit the bump. This is one of those things where it would be straightforward to figure out a solution if you could recognize the problem in advance.

The pockets were French seamed. They have a terrific shape, look and functionality, probably the best feature of this pattern.

My big question now is how durable this skirt will be. Will it stand up to the rough and tumble of kid wear? Will my kid wear it without a lining (the fabric is not super soft on the inside)? Will it crumple up like crazy given the 100% cotton nature of the fabric? Will it shrink further in the wash (I washed the fabric only once before sewing)?

Leggings

Sew quick and easy!

The pattern was from this wonderful book.

The patterns that come with the book are terrific, the instructions and clear, the ideas inspirational.

The fabric for these Riviera leggings was a thin printed fabric from Jo-Ann with a silky feel (I forget the composition) and a decent amount of lycra.

I stitched the major seams on the sewing machine using a zigzag stitch length of 3.0 mm and a 0.5 mm.

The elastic was a 3/4 inch washable polyester elastic, 71 polyester, 29% rubber  I picked up at Walmart a couple of years ago. This product was manufactured by the Rhode Island Textile Co (No 85 Stretchrite). Interestingly I googled the company but it seems that they are no longer making this particular product and Walmart appears to be selling something slightly different.

I attached the elastic using a wide 3-thread serger stitch, set for the longest stitch length on my machine.

Applying the elastic is theoretically straightforward but slightly tricky. Practice and experience is helping here, I found it easier to apply the elastic on the serger because the long thin serger presser foot was good at holding down the elastic so I could stretch it out in front. To do this on the sewing machine, I really need to practice stretching the elastic in the front and back at the same time.

To finish off the leggings, I really need to encase the elastic by folding the elastic to the inside and stitch around again or just stitch at each vertical seamline. I didn’t get around to doing this just yet because my kid has a long torso so the elastic hits at the perfect spot. It seems comfortable as is with the exposed elastic so I just left it. Next time I make these leggings, I’ll alter the pattern to accommodate the extra length.

I also did not hem the leggings, they seem fine as is. This is what is meant by sewing at one’s skill level.

Sewing for kids is definitely a practical way to practice garment sewing. There’s not a huge expanse of fabric involved, they are so appreciative particularly if, as here, they are involved in fabric choice or it’s something they have requested. There won’t be any complaints about details like the lack of a finished hem. Plus kids grow so fast, the garment doesn’t have to last forever.

The difference between sewing and knitting for loved  ones is also a factor here. Kids can be quite capricious. If I sew something that doesn’t meet with favor somehow I can take this with more equanimity than if  this happens with something I’ve knit. I can’t quite put my finger on this but it could be that the act of creating the yardage in knitting creates more of an “emotional” bond with the crafter. Or it could be that I take the act of knitting more seriously than the act of sewing which I love mainly for the fun of putzing around with the sewing machine.